The Tetons

The Tetons
Why'd I go west? For the Rockies

Saturday, April 18, 2015

Colorado for the first time


I have arrived in Colorado.  I left Arches on Thursday, entered Colorado and immediately went to the Colorado National Monument where I proceeded to drive around Rim Road for a few hours and listen to Snoop Dogg. If Colorado's beautiful colors and dynamic canyons weren't enough, the Rockies sure were. I headed east on I-70 out of Grand Junction towards Denver and it didn't take very long for the walls to grow higher than the windshield as the road began to curve with the meandering Colorado River and climb the tall mountain passes. I remember being told by several friends that there's nothing like the Rockies, and nothing like the Colorado Rockies. But it definitely required seeing in order to believe. I am a believer.


 
    Independence Monument, Colorado


I also believe I will be very happy in Colorado.  But before I ramble on further about my professed love of abundant, snow capped peaks, let's review the road trip.  After all, it was a pretty wild two weeks of travel.





We set forth driving across the entire mid west (because who really wants to stop there?) not stopping for anything but gas.  Mr. Nitrous got off work about 7 and we were able to hit the road by 8:30pm.  With 107.9 The Boom's classic hip hop quickly fading, we made our way to Mr. Newlimb's place in Pittsburgh, where we cheersed a few beers and slept for about three hours before returning to the road for our long push.  1,200 miles through eight states (PA, OH, IN, MI pit stop, IL, WI, MN, SD) with two stops for gas and one stop for a deep dish of heaven from Giordano's in the Windy City.  At about 1:00 am and 50 miles from our campsite Mr. Nitrous would be pulled over for going 83 mph in a 75 zone.  In the blur that was eastern South Dakota, Nitrous would leave the car in drive as he exited the vehicle to join the nicest police officer in history in his vehicle (front seat of course). No casualties occurred and we only received a warning.





The Next day we woke in a campsite perched a few yards from a beautiful lake in the middle of South Dakota.  No other life in sight and the wind still howling, we packed up, made sure the fireworks we set off in our dream like arrival weren't smoldering into a field fire, and hit the road yet again.  This time we only had a few hours to kill:  first the Badlands, then the Black Hills.  Badlands are 25 miles of colorful, eroded mounds of earth that fall into an endless prairie.  We drove through for the most part trying to avoid tourists.  Finally we found a deserted back road, and wandered down a few mounds to the base of the canyons and back up to a distant ridge.  No rattlesnakes were seen, but there were plenty of bison patties.  Fun times, but the Badlands are a "drive through" park and that is what we did.



Mr. Nitrous standing next to the Lake in SD, where we set fireworks off.
          
Badlands National Park
Climbing and sliding in the Badlands

On to Grand Rapids and the Black Hills.  We stopped at Walmart to get some ice, jerky, and a big, dead rotisserie chicken, then moved on to see George W, Teddy,  TJ, and Abe.  Mount Rushmore National Monument was deserted with the exception of a handful of families.  After 30 minutes of walking around it was off to our campsite behind the men (literally we camped right behind the monument).  There was a lady at the campsite in heels and a bunch of incoherent climbers on spring break, so we climbed a 60' rock and drank an irresponsible amount of beers, while we watched the sun go down.
America's Finest
                                                                  
And a goat
                                                                      
Sunset from behind the Fathers


Crazy Horse





The next day we traveled to Sylvan Lake inside Custer State Park (who the hell names a park after that dude?) and climbed Harney Peak via Little Devil's Tower and the Cathedral Spires.  It was hot, dry, and beautiful.  We were out after 8+ miles at lunch, drank a few beers on a boulder on the lake, and drove to the middle of Wyoming, where we received several complimentary rounds of Wind River Pale Ale from the owner of the Antelope Bar in Glenrock (pop: 2,500).  We proceeded to buy all of the remaining WRPA's from the town, set up camp by the Platte River next to a redneck fishing/bonfire party.  The rednecks did not care for us, but had no problems turning on their squealing truck at two a.m. to warm up. 



Cathedral Spires in Custer State Park
North towards Deadwood
Little Devils Tower in Custer State Park
Sylvan Lake
Redneck Campground Sunset

 The next morning we were off to Grand Teton NP via Bridger-Teton NF and US-287 before the rednecks had a chance to open their eyes.  We had our sights set on climbing the Middle Teton the following day and only one thing could stand in our way: maps!  Who knew a national park wouldn't sell a map of the park?  Similar to the Black Hills visitor center, no one seems to know anything, or are at least reluctant to share any interesting information (I have talked to many wonderful park rangers at numerous national parks that are more than willing to answer any question at length and engage as much as they can).  But we got our permit and bear canister, drove into town to rent Mr. Nitrous some gear I told him not to bring, found a USGS topo map, and set forth for Granite Canyon mid afternoon.  At Bradley Lake (~3mi.) we lost the trail.  Honestly, I don't think we ever saw it again.  The trail was at best frustrating, and mostly miserable, but we searched until dark and then a good portion of the morning until we agreed that a hot meal and a beer was more rewarding then finding our way up (it was hopeless). 



The Tetons


Breakfast Nook
                                                          
We met Mr. Hogan and Ms. Franklin at the Town Tavern (Million Dollar Cowboy Bar was closed).  It was more like we ignored the new couple while we scarfed our warm, spicy food and drank our cold beer.  Finally we left for the beautiful mountainside house we would call home for the next few days.  This place had it all.  Like How-you-living-In-mansions-and-Benz's-giving-ends-to-my-friends lifestyle: hot tub, sauna, foosball, boot warmer, two-car garage.  We had good times hot tubbing, cooking, and debating whether or not Israel is a "terroristic" state.


Jackson group minus Mr. Nitrous


 On Friday Mr. Nitrous and I thought it would be a grand idea to hike up Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, ski Corbet's Culoir, and ride out the day.  Turns out uphill travel is prohibited at JHMR (probably because they don't pay someone to check their $100 lift tickets above Teton Village).  Furious, we turned back, did some research and determined Teton Pass was the place for our earn-your-turns adventure.  We set our sights on Mt. Glory and the Glory Bowl.  2000' of bootpack and square miles of sunshine on open snow.  We climbed, we took pictures, we got sun burnt, and we slid down corn snow for a very long way!  Life was good!


Mr. Nitrous climbing Mt. Glory



 That night everyone drank too much and I drove them (sober) to the Wyoming-Idaho state line to shoot off fireworks (it felt more legal in Idaho).  The next day everyone went off on an adventure, while Mr. Nitrous and I drank beers in the beanbag room, watched YouTube videos of N.W.A. Snoop Dogg, and Dr. Dre while listening to a Spotify gangsta rap playlist.  We went to a dinner that night that made Mr. Hogan sick (I think I saw Jimmy Chin in the Boot and Spur).  Afterward Mr. Lardiere assisted in the second closing of the Mangy Moose with A-Bomb and Nitrous, by purchase of ALL top shelf Scotch - the night was young.



How you living, Biggie Smalls?


Closing down the Mangy Moose


                                            
But the adventure of A-Bomb and Nitrous do one-third of America was over.  The next day everyone got on a plane and went home.  I went to Idaho to sleep on the other side of the Tetons.  Turns out I have a very real fear of BEARS! Grizzly Bears (Ursus arctos horribilis) are a gnarly bear that the Targhee NF says you should arm yourself with bear spray in case of an attack.  I don't have bear spray.  Good news: I slept in my car (terrified) for the first time.  Great success (I didn't get eaten)!  But instead of exploring the snow covered passes of Targhee NF, I avoided the fresh 2" of snow and headed south for Utah, but not without first taking a 60 miles detour north across the Continental Divide via an unmaintained Montana dirt road to the wonderfully straight and flat I-15 with a speed limit of 80mph to take me to Salt Lake City.





Still feeling unreasonably exhausted and alone, I trekked into the Wasatch outside of SLC, UT.  The road of Big Cottonwood Canyon wound upwards towards upper class, mountain homes and pretend wilderness.  Don't get me wrong, the trails and mountains were spectacular, but it is tough pretending you are in the wilderness with flush toilets, lush mountain homes, and the constant rush of highway traffic.  I camped illegally at some designated NF campsite that said it opens April 1st but pretended to be closed on the 6th.  I had my first real camp dinner of Ramen, bratwurst, pepper, and greens that night.  Then rose early to climb to Dog Lake, set up camp, try to find Mt. Reynolds and the Great Western Trail, which wasn't worth finding.  I retreated back to my tent, hungry and sun burnt; took a nap and boiled snow.  I cursed the Public Lands girl who told me there wouldn't be much snow at the top (I love snow, I just prefer to prepare for it).   I forgot a book, my journal; post cards were written; and I had no service.  Thankful atop Reynolds I was able to download Kindle on my phone and the Short Stories of Ernest Hemmingway.  



Camp Vibes
                                                             
Clouds approaching the Wasatch
                                               


I awoke with the mission to make it to Colorado.  Weather was supposed to again turn to shit, and I needed dry warmth.  Sure enough it was pouring in SLC (it would dump 20"+ up top in the next week, but I'm an amateur).  Somewhere in the desert of Utah I realized Arches NP was within a stones throw of I-70 and decided to make a pit stop.  Arches is a drive through park, but I managed to squeeze seven miles of walking out her.  Utah is like a big, red, rock jungle gym.  Can't wait to return.  I slept just south of Moab in my car for the second time.  I have it down now.  Snowboard squeezes up top, cooler outside, packs between the seat, plenty of room.  Oh and a -20 degree Fahrenheit bag for the win.



Balancing Rock
                                                              
North Window Arch?
                                                         
Landscape Arch
                                                      
Double O Arch


                                                          
From here I would travel to Colorado, where the adventure of my imagination was waiting.  It has been a few weeks since entering Colorado and it is encouraging to feel the sense of belonging that I do.  I have hiked small and large peaks, driven a long way, and planned many returns.  At this point, I feel comfortable in saying Colorado has been calling me.  


 
12,000'


I'd also like to take this opportunity and thank the two Eric's and their wonderful families for being incredibly hospitable.  Without such support from my family and my extended family this adventure would not be possible.





Stay tuned please....

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